How Much Does a Concrete Patio Cost?

A concrete patio is a poured slab on a compacted base. Cost is driven far more by finish and by site conditions than by the concrete itself, which is a minor part of the total.

Cost by size and finish (opens in a new tab)

Average-cost market, 4-inch slab:

Small slabs cost more per square foot. Most contractors apply a minimum job charge, and forming, delivery, and mobilisation are largely fixed regardless of area.

What you are paying for (opens in a new tab)

For a typical $14 per square foot plain patio, roughly:

Concrete commonly runs $140–220 per cubic yard delivered. A 400 sq ft patio at 4 inches needs about 5 cubic yards, so roughly $700–1,100 in material against a $3,200–8,000 total.

Finishes (opens in a new tab)

Broom finish is the default. A broom drawn across the surface after floating gives texture and slip resistance. Cheapest and entirely serviceable.

Exposed aggregate washes the surface paste away to reveal the stone. Durable, good grip, more interesting surface. Adds roughly $4–6 per sq ft.

Coloured uses integral colour mixed through, or a colour hardener broadcast on the surface. Integral costs more and lasts longer, since surface colour wears through eventually.

Stamped presses mats into wet concrete to imitate stone, brick, or slate. It doubles the cost of a plain slab because it doubles crew time and adds colour, release agent, and sealing.

Polished or acid-stained is usually applied to an existing slab, a resurfacing option rather than a new-pour finish.

Whether stamped is worth it (opens in a new tab)

Stamped concrete at $15–30 per square foot overlaps directly with pavers at $14–30. Worth weighing honestly:

• Stamped concrete needs resealing every two to three years to hold its colour. That is an ongoing cost and an ongoing job.
• A crack in a stamped slab is far more visible than a crack in a plain one, because it cuts across a pattern.
• Pavers at the same price do not crack, can be individually reset, and never need resealing.

The case for stamped is a seamless surface with no joints, and pattern options pavers do not offer.

Getting it built properly (opens in a new tab)

The finish is what people choose on. The base and the joints determine whether it is still good in fifteen years.

1. Excavate and compact the subgrade

   Remove topsoil and organic material entirely: it decomposes and the slab settles into the void. Compact what remains.

2. Lay 4 inches of compacted gravel base

   Provides drainage and a uniform bearing surface. Compact in lifts. Skipping this is the most common cause of premature failure.

3. Form and slope

   About a quarter inch of fall per foot, away from the house. Establish this in the forms, not by trowelling later.

4. Place reinforcement correctly

   Welded wire mesh or rebar on chairs, positioned in the middle of the slab depth. Mesh lying on the base does nothing, and it is a common shortcut.

5. Pour continuously

   The whole slab in one placement. Stopping mid-pour creates a cold joint, a permanent plane of weakness that will crack along its line.

6. Cut control joints

   Spacing roughly 24 to 30 times the slab thickness, so about 8 to 10 feet for a 4-inch slab, and a quarter of the depth. This decides where the slab cracks.

7. Cure it wet

   Keep the surface damp for several days, or use a curing compound. Concrete gains strength through hydration, a chemical reaction with water. A slab that dries too fast is permanently weaker.

DIY (opens in a new tab)

For a small slab such as a shed pad, an AC pad, or a small landing, DIY concrete is realistic. For a full patio it is a demanding project.

The constraint is not skill with a trowel; it is time. Concrete has a working window measured in tens of minutes, and once the truck arrives the pour has to be placed, screeded, floated, and finished before it sets. That needs several people who know what they are doing, working continuously.

That last option is worth considering. Excavation, base preparation, and forming are unskilled, time-consuming work that contractors bill at skilled rates. Doing the prep and hiring the pour and finish can cut 20 to 30% off a quote.

Where it goes wrong (opens in a new tab)

• Base skipped or inadequate. The slab settles and cracks. Not repairable.
• Organic material left under the slab. Topsoil decomposes and the slab drops into the void.
• Mesh on the ground rather than mid-depth. Contributes nothing.
• No control joints, or spaced too far apart. Random cracking.
• Poured in extreme heat or near freezing. Both compromise curing. Cold weather work needs additives and protection.
• Water added on site to make placing easier. Every gallon past the mix design reduces final strength.
• Sealed too early. Traps moisture and can cause surface discoloration.